We woke up quite excited this morning knowing that in just a few hours we will be spending our time with thousands of seabirds. The lovely and for us, southern guys, the rarely heard Common Sandpiper territorial songs filled the whole bay. I want to wake up to this trilling song every day. What an underrated bird. As I sat on my ‘usual’ rock one of the Common Sanpipers flew high up to hillside and landed on a rock and started singing. It looked to be guarding over its nest or territory.
There was a surprising couple of Twite just landed in front me and started feed on the dead seaweed. They were soon followed by House Sparrows, Eurasian Linnets and 3 Lesser Redpolls. In the restaurant garden there was two Song Thrush, Rock Pigeons and an overflying European Siskin. At the hillside a Northern Wheatear and Barn Swallows were hunting.
The harbour was pretty calmed with a single Red-breasted Merganser a couple of Common Eider, 3 European Shags, 4 Eurasian Oystercatchers, 4 Razorbills, a Common Murre, an overflying Great Skua and of course gulls.
Just before 9AM the ticket office opened and we faced with a little challenge. On the Handa Island ferry website there was no mention about the ‘cash only’ ticket purchase and of course we had no cash with us. I suspected that when the first visitors arrived with cash in their hand. Unfortunately, there is no ATM in Tarbet so we had to miss the first crossing and pick up some cash from the slowest cash machine of the world in Scourie.
An hour later we finally jumped in the boat and in just 10 minutes we were greeted by a lovely girl, a local wardenwho gave a short introduction to the area then we started our 6km long trek. The first speciality was a dark form Arctic Skua which was standing next to its nest. On the way to the peak we passed some potential habitat of the few pairs of Red Grouse but we couldn’t find one. The whole island was under the reign of about 200 breeding pairs of Great Skua. I counted 49 of these formidable sea raptors on and around the island. It was a good introduction to the different colour phases of Arctic Skua for Dani, as both were present. The inner island has a relatively low diversity with just a couple of songbird species, including Meadow Pipit, European Sky Lark and Northern Wheatear but we saw Willow Warblers in the bushes and also British White or Pied Wagtails. Orchids were blooming along the wooden path.
On the northern part of the island there was the big thing. Visitors, photographers and birdwatchers enjoyed the view of thousands of seabirds on the cliffs and on the sea around the colonies. Amazing numbers of Common Murre and Razorbill with dozens of Atlantic Puffin are breeding on the island. On the top of the island, possibly the only freshwater pool provided excellent bathing opportunities for a flock of Great Skuas with the company of a pair stunning Red-throated Loon.
End of Part One. To be continued…